Letter May 25^th1968 Igloolik NWT

Dear Mum & Dad

The mail goes out about once a week, until travel gets more difficult at the end of June - so I'll try to send off a letter form as often as I can. Meanwhile I'll write all the bulky news on this paper & send out a less regular news letter. - Always assuming I get the chance to sit & write it.



Northern Quebec from the air




Unloading at Iqaluit/Frobisher Bay

May 25 It is actually 12.15 midnight & Sunday 26th, but as it's light here we're still up & awake. I left Montreal as planned at 11PM on Fri in a small Douglas DC4. As we were carrying a helicopter from the Dept of Energy Mines& Resources one side of the cabin was curtained off & stacked with bits of rotor blades, engine & all our stuff which was packed in barrels. Just before we took off a mechanic came to the door & said to the steward 'tell the Captain to rev. her up real good or she won't take off with all that load.' Then as soon as we had taken off in a cloud of brown smoke & sparks a man started to wrench the door handle as if he wanted to open it & get out - I think he was stopping a draught. The stewardess served coffee next and spilled a whole cup of scalding brew down the front of one of the passengers. Of course it was the only man on the whole plane wearing a suit, everyone else in work clothes! So he sat there all night with a bare, throbbing chest covered in butter, looking like the great Maharishi himself.

As we flew north a red glow appeared on the horizon & about 2.30 AM we were in 24 hour light & it looked like a normal dawn. Flew over Fort Chimo & Hudson Straight & saw the frozen sea. At 6.30 AM we landed at Frobisher Bay& leapt off the plane into a lovely 8°F temps. Went for a walk round the area & woke up a bit in the fresh air (not really possible to sleep on the plane as it vibrates so much) 7.40 AM took off again & landed at Hall Beach at 10.30 AM. Here we stepped out into dazzling white light & low cloud cover & light snow.

We sat outside for 2 1/2 hours watching them trying to unload the helicopter. It took about 30 men & 2 fork lift trucks to get various bits off. Everyone came to watch, including some US army people from the DEW line station & lots of Eskimos. Saw a couple of women in traditional parkas with babies tucked inside the hoods.

At MontrealI met a girl Thea from Fredericton n Brunswick, who was going to Igloolik to marry the RCMP constable. All very romantic. I travelled with her, & at HallBeach she rushed off the plane into the arms of this splendid 6'+ Mountie in his super uniform& Eskimo parka. He decked her out with sealskin boots & gauntlets, wind trousers & a superb parka trimmed with white fox & they zoomed off into the snow on a skidoo hauling a sled, covered in caribou skins. I felt like singing a rousing chorus of 'Rosemarie'

We loaded our stuff onto a caterpillar snow mobile [sketch] with skis on the front.

Igloolik May 26^th1968

Saw a lemming! Just like a grey hamster. Some Eskimo children were watching it eat moss & it took absolutely no notice of us.

The school master's wife also teaches, & she takes the Brownies on Tuesdays (It is a strange mixture of traditional Eskimo & Western things here) I've said I'd go & help her - with a view to meeting more village people. Being in the Government house rather cuts us off. That's why we still plan to live in tents later - not yet though as it's cold, windy & there's about 18" snow on the ground.

We have taken our first few meteorological readings & set up a met. station. We also have to run down onto the sea ice to measure the depth of snow. It went down to 4°F last night!

The people here dress in beautiful traditional clothes. Their sealskin boots are so gorgeous I think I'll get a pair made. The women wear white parkas with huge hoods for the babies & long flaps at the back to sit on.

The children & men wear parkas like mine, but with waterproof outer covers. Both types decorated with braid & ribbon round the hems.

May 27^th Up at 7.45 because men going hunting. All prepared but offshore wind - no good for hunting. Visited Jim Haining to look at his village map. Ours are useless.

Jim Haining says he was 'brain washed' for a year in Ottawa. Ottawamaps are all completely out of date & incomplete for any date. All plans for relocating village buildings must go via Ottawa. Frank has sealskin boots + duffel inners for $30 from Co-Op.

My freckles are rampant, as is appetite. Most women wear amautiks. Babies have bare bums when they stand up.

6PM

2 hunters came in while we were eating lunch & joined us for a cup of tea. They are taking the 3 men hunting tomorrow on 2 dog teams & qamutiqs - long toboggans. [sketch] They couldn't speak English& a young boy translated. They were very interested in us, especially the girls, but apparently they were afraid we want to go too & have been asking the RCMP & the store-keeper if the women are going hunting too - they hope not. Kunnuk, one of the hunters, was on a 160 mile round trip to hunt caribou this weekend & we bought some rump steak & a roast & stewing steak off him. Had caribou steak for lunch today - it is delicious. A dark, lean meat, with a slightly stronger flavour than steak. Ate 1" thick steaks. It's called tuktu.



Qamutiq and lone woof

I went to the Hudson's Bay store. It was packed full of people. When they saw us they dived at the 50 lb flour sacks& the tea thinking we would probably buy the lot. They're v good natured& all say 'hi' or smile. The kids are especially curious & very eager to show off their English. The adults don't speak English though.

A dog team & qamutiq have just hurtled down the street with the driver in hot pursuit - on foot. It is so clean & bright here & the people all seem happy& busy. I was afraid there might be an atmosphere of depression or boredom, but there isn't.

We have a super radio that picks up the BBC World Service. They've just said goodnight to the Far East, & started beaming out 'Brain of Britain' to us.

‘23 is young and the world waits’

I have unearthed a crate of my letters sent from Canada to my parents. 

Mum hoarded them all in the garage! They are a blow by blow account of my adventures. I was a prolific letter writer it seems. I have letters, field diaries, photographs, pocket diaries and copies of fieldwork in Igloolik for 1968 and 1969.

Here are extracts from my 1968 visit to Igloolik as part of the International Biological Programme researching for my Geography Masters Degree at McGill. I'm going to blog the 1968 letters to match the 2014 dates as the summer unfolds. Here is everything from accepting the post to 24th May 1968...

‘23 is young and the world waits’

Ottawa, September 1966 - Roof of my apartment 

 Draft letter, Ottawa Feb 12^th 1968

Dear Dr Foote

            Thank you for your letter of Feb 10th mentioning the possibility of work in Igloolik for this summer. I am very interested in this, but would like to know about the work in greater detail. I imagine the best course is for me to visit you in Montreal to discuss it.

I hope to be in Montreal this weekend, in which case I could visit the Dept. on Monday, if that would be convenient for you.

            I will be seeing Dr. Peter Grant this weekend. It would be easiest for you to contact him if you can to let me know when I can see you on this Mon.

Yours sincerely  etc.

Ottawa April 23^rd 1968 10 PM

Dear Parents

            I have 2 main items of news. 1/ is that I have been accepted for the job in Igloolik! I'll be chief investigator of social & cultural-economic studies. It will be rather good I think as this year is purely reconnaissance & we will mostly just get to know people & get a good idea of how they live + any side issues we can think of to study. There are 2 boys & 2 girls. I'm 2nd in command & Peter's student is camp leader. The girl is my assistant & camp cook. We have 2 sleeping tents & a large living tent with table, chairs, book shelves etc & cooker. We will live in a house until camp is set up. Don Foote will come up for a week to get us going. The party leaves on May 24 & returns Aug 31. We're getting fishing permits & hope to spend a lot of time lazing around with a rod.

Love from Jenny x

Montreal Sat May 10.

Man what an exhilarating day! Dear Mum & Dad today I drove to Montreal & had a meeting with the field party from 11 AM to 7.30 P.M.! It is so exciting & everything is falling into place. Don Foote is in charge & he's so full of enthusiasm it's really catching. Richard Bradley is to be camp leader after Don leaves after 2 weeks. Then Carol is cook & assistant & Hiram Beaubier is in charge of technological surveys. Richard is Peter's student & is studying seals & hunting. I'm looking after social & economic things & hope to specialize in the diffusion of innovation - i.e. who buys modern rifles, boat engines etc - are they the most influential families etc.

There is to be a Press Conference this week & we'll get a full page spread in the Montreal Star. Also the C.B.C. are doing a documentary on us - in the office at the airport & at the camp! All very exciting. If we get enough good data we'll issue separate reports this autumn & maybe get them published.

In Ottawa we played office squash in our empty office on Fri. I refereed while Russ & Gordon played, using hands as racquets & a ping pong ball & masking tape as a net! Well, have just given a brief autobiography for the Press ho ho "Kentish Maid Goes North" all my love Jenny x

Ottawa May 17th

            I have already earnt my salary for the summer this week. I’ve been running between 3 buildings. At the Dept. of Northern Development I’ve met a large number of cynical bastards who really tried to take the wind out of my sails. I was so upset by one man I had to visit I didn’t dare to go back to see him but ran back to hide behind Russ & telephone him from my own office. He must have realized he’d upset me as he was v nice & when I did go & see him again he spent an hour explaining the Welfare system in Igloolik & then apologized for his original reception.

I met Don Foote’s arch enemy with trembling fear. He gave me a lot of super information including notes on all Igloolik families eg “X is the biggest bum around” or “ he is a useless bugger” neatly written on each man’s individual record. One man has “not a good Eskimo, he got lost with X between Hall Beach & Igloolik (about 20 miles!) & is a smart Alick” Well, Miss Vestey won’t have him as a guide that’s for sure. Hope you are O.K. without Mum. All my love & Jimpy. Jenny xxx

May 23, 8.30

Dear Mum, as I write this I am sitting in a train, dying to pee, but waiting for said train to leave the station! Haven’t got a pen so excuse pencil/ Well guess what, the train started, & as soon as I got in the w.c. it stopped in another part of the station & I had to sit there till it went.

            I drove to Ottawa this A.M., visited everyone & did some vital errands for the expedition. Then I took my car to 1359 where I was greeted by all 3 boys & made to stay for a meal & to watch Star Trek (the equivalent of Dr Who) then Jim took me to the station & waved goodbye with both arms, standing on the dash-board shouting merry things. Really living there was the best thing that has happened to me for a long time! Jim is a fantastic character.

            Now the boy in the seat in front is playing guitar, composing the original Railroad Blues, I think.

            Well tomorrow is the day. Everything is pretty well under control now. I’m going to sleep tomorrow morning. We take off at 11P.M. & arrive at 9.30 AM after a stop at Frobisher Bay on Baffin Island.

            Had dinner with the field party yesterday & all senses of humour passed my inspection. They seem a good bunch, though all look so young (me too)

            Have bought some sexy red pyjamas (boys) all warm, with elasticated cuffs.

Looking forward to eating caribou stroganoff & seal risotto flambé.

Really quite tired, so will have a nap.

            Friday The boy in the seat in front with a guitar turned out to be a Separatist & was saying very unpleasant things about the English to his friend, so I tried to look as French as I could.

            Well, I slept in till 10.30 when Rosemary called. (they are at St. Hilaire) It is a perfect day – sunny & about 65̊. A group of men I know are stuck in Frobisher so I may see them there at 5AM tomorrow! As I’ve said before I know more people who are in the Arctic than in the south. Ho ho, the phone had just rung & I’m called to a T.V. press conference at 2 P.M. which rather means all is chaos, so will say bye bye All my love Jenny xxxxxxx           

May 24 1968

Dearest Mum,

Here I am up at the airport about to leap aboard my little ‘plane to Hall Beach. Have met a girl who is going there to marry the local Mounty so we’re going to the wedding! Feeling so smart in my winter clothes as it’s v. warm here. We were on the T.V. tonight! after our press conference. Love Jenny xxx

May 24  Field Diary

Dep. Montreal. 11.PM. Nordair

Hiram in nosewarmer and bobble hat. Met Thea Brown, who is going to Igloolik from Frederickton New Brunswick to marry RCMP Constable Waterhouse. Took off in a cloud of red smoke & vibrated off the ground. One passenger appeared to be opening the door just after take-off. Mechanic overheard whispering to stewardess - "tell the Captain to rev. her up real good or she'll never leave the ground." (we're carrying Doug Hodson's Energy Mines & Resources Geological Survey helicopter) 1/2 the cabin is full of baggage behind a curtain. Stewardess spilled hot coffee over the only man wearing a suit, so he travelled with a bare chest smothered in burn ointment.

            Rattled north into the dawn. Light by 2.30 AM. Flew over Chimo, Hudson St.

6.30 landed at Frobisher Bay and looked around. 8? Pictures of Otter 'plane and hydro survey ship, and airport area. Ravens.

7.40 took off for Hall Beach.

10.30 Arr. Hall Beach. Thick, low cloud cover, snowing. Waited outside and watched E.M.R. helicopter unloaded from our 'plane. Involved 2 forklift trucks & everybody in the area came to watch, including pale Yanks from DEW line, obviously spend all their time indoors.

Sat out till about 12 noon (local time now) when loaded personal gear onto Bombardier snow mobile [pic]. Met Jim Haining. Took us to eat in H.B. settlement in Esk. house. Thea & fiancée set off on skidoo with full regalia of parka, wind pants, sealskin boots, gloves etc. - sped off into the snow. We followed w. Eskimo driver and mate after meal. Very bone-shaking and later no oxygen in cabin because of fags and gas fumes. Got stuck twice on sea ice & had to shovel out of deep snow. Saw Igloolik as a cold mirage over the sea ice. Arrived Igloolik at 4.50 (left 1.05) & all the kids came to watch. Nice looking village - clean & neat. Our house is unpleasantly luxurious & dead suburban.

          Dr Depener in residence & command + photographer Frank Wagner. V. formal meal cooked by Carol & me despite lack of sleep since Thurs?

Met Wynne, school head.

Bed at 1.20 AM. Light.